Submerging in the waters of the Pacific Ocean is always spectacular, but to do it in front of the doorway shaped rocks that raise themselves a few feet over the ocean on the south coast of Puerto Vallarta, is an experience to be repeated over and over again say those whom have done it, for they never tire of it.
Los Arcos (The Arches) is a natural preserve closer to Mismaloya than it is to Puerto Vallarta. It is formed by a group of islets covered with exuberant vegetation rising between 16 and 160 feet above the water. This exquisite formation is responsible for the ports original name, Las Peñas (The Crags) which persisted until the beginning of the XX century when it was changed to Puerto Vallarta.
The force of the sea has created the crag´s erosion forming caves and arches making it one of the best places for scuba diving and snorkeling on Mexico’s Pacific Coast.
You can get to Los Arcos on a boat or water taxi from Boca de Tomatlan or Los Muertos Beach. There are also a few tour companies that make day trips to Los Arcos and then visit some close by beach like Quimixto, Yelapa, Las Animas or Majahuitas.
You can also enjoy viewing the arches from firm land standing on the viewpoint that is on the highway between Vallarta and Tomatlan, and capture the treasured sunset falling between the crags and arches while pelicans and booby birds set atop them to rest. A magnificent spectacle!
Amílcar Cupul is an oceanographer and researcher for the Coastal University Center (CUC) of the University of Guadalajara who has been studying the coral reefs of the Bay of Bandera’s area for the last 15 years.
When he first arrived in Puerto Vallarta in 1994, he began a movement to protect the coral reefs and lay rules for the tourist boats that visit the natural preserve, declared as such in 1975. The coral reefs are being damaged by climate change, warm water currents and the El Niño phenomenon, and boat anchors were contributing to even more destruction.
Today there is a buoy that marks the limit to the boats that visit. But human presence persists to damage the more than 10 subspecies of coral in the area for they are threatened by inexperienced divers when they step or crash against them.
All in all, the experienced scuba diver is received in this underwater paradise by a school of angel fish that is a marvelous sight. Even though 95% of the coral reef is lifeless, its formation gives shelter to small fish giving them refuge from larger predators.
A couple of stylized bluefish seem enamored and about to kiss swim past the Cupul Magaña. Amilcar follows them taking notes on a special tablet, and confirms the privilege of working in this environment.
The scientist goes from shallow waters to deeper ones entering a riskier area. He scubas through 80 foot tunnels between the crags. Nearby a ray moves the water that hits its body with the flapping of his fins. In the depth he sees an eel and a few morena fish. Amilcar cannot lose his concentration.
After he covers the 74 acres that comprehend the protected natural area, Amilcar’s work day comes to an end. But he scubas to the area known as La Quijada del Diablo (Devils Jaw) where there is no way of monitoring any coral formations for it has a depth of about 2,000 feet, but travels its waters in hopes of viewing the silhouette of a giant manta ray somewhere in its depths, but today he has no luck.
NOCTURNAL PARADISE
Some specialized companies offer night diving tours to Los Arcos, assuring a spectacle not visible during the day; lobsters, octopus and infinity of fish in a bioluminescent ambience that will make you lose your breath.
