En mas de alguna ocasión –durante el largo término que estuvo fuera del presupuesto y que fue cuando realmente nació, creció y murió nuestra relación amistosa- tozuda y machaconamente  insistí a Don Gilberto Flores Muñoz para que escribiera sus memorias personales y políticas; ..”” Mire don Gil, -le argumentaba- Ud., carece de todo derecho para guardar en su ronco pecho lo que le dijo y lo que no le dijo Ruiz Cortinez a Ud., y Ud., a Ruiz Cortinez,.. .y sobre todo los detalles de la sucesión presidencial del 58…  esos sucesos no son de su patrimonio personal como lo son sus sementales indo-Brasil ..sino que pertenecen al  patrimonio de todo un pueblo porque constituyen los entresijos de su  historia…así como otras experiencias y anécdotas personales y el que Ud., no lo haga..es una omisión punto menos que irresponsable”“…

“Para eso es Ud., muy bueno” -me contestaba en tono de broma ligera – “para acabar o para convencer a  la gente con esa lengua  ponzoñosa de víbora mazacuata…” hasta que, finalmente, accedió a platicar de sus experiencias que, suponíase, yo pondría por escrito y conservaría los textos que él revisaría para su publicación oportuna, en la inteligencia que se reservaba todo derecho a determinar el momento oportuno  durante el transcurso de su vida; determinación que a mí correspondería si en razón de la diferencia de edades, llegare a sobrevivirle.-

“”Ándele, pues, ándele …para que ya no siga jodiendo, ….-por fin me dijo el “Tigre”.-.” .tráigase su aparatito a segunda condición de que  yo no tenga a la vista  la cebolla esa”  (dijo indicando el micrófono).

Se verificaron tres o cuatro entrevistas grabadas con ese propósito en un par de casettes y todo el proyecto quedó ahí, trunco  un par de meses después, como trunca quedó   nuestra supuesta o real amistad.- A los cassetes los truncó esa humedad pegajosa de los veranos tepicenses y no es aquí el momento de recordar las minucias del rompimiento de nuestra relación personal.

Viene a mi recuerdo que fue entonces cuando de regreso de un viaje a Mérida,  donde había visto publicaciones de memorias de yucatecos cuando me nació la idea de escribir mis propios testimonios o experiencias, aunque no signifiquen entresijos histórico-político de proporción nacional o de las más altas esferas del poder, como hubiere sido el caso de Don Gilberto Flores Muñoz, sino simples chismes o anécdotas, de mi propia historia y de lo que en mi ya larga vida, he tenido en suerte ser testigo. (Posteriormente Julio Scherer publicó en Excelsior una entrevista con Don Gil, magistral por su calidad de periodista, pero –por la naturaleza propia del reportaje-  restringida al tema a la sucesión presidencial del 58) y dejando fuera otros aspectos de la vida política y personal que hubiere sido interesante conocer independientemente de estar de acuerdo o no con sus tácticas y estrategias; el anecdotario revelador de su marrullería de ranchero ladino; el conocimiento que tenía de la gente y sus facultades de manipulación, como lo llegamos a conocer el reducido grupo del que fui integrante.

Así, ya sesenteando, quiero cumplir también con aquella obligación que  impone  a todo ser humano pensante, -digo y enfatizo pensante- la máxima, al parecer china, de sembrar un árbol y escribir un libro, aunque este sea de tema limitado a mis propios recuerdos autobiográficos destinados primeramente a mi mismo y luego a un reducido número de gentes que siento muy cercanas a mi y estoy seguro que, aún sin mencionar sus nombres en pomposas dedicatorias sabrán a sí mismos identificarse y estarán muy seguras de sus sentimientos de inclusión.-

Hace ya lustros, y lo digo con todo orgullo que dejó  de importarme lo que de mí diga o no diga, piense o no piense ese ente amorfo etéreo e intangible de imposible definición que parece servir de poderoso agente  regulador de conductas de “la gente normal”;  sus debes, debieras o deberías prevalecientes en la sociedad y en la civilización en las que tuve en suerte nacer y vivir quedan dentro de mis altos grados de importamadrismo;

En alguna ocasión Emilio M. González –típico exponente del homo sapiens nayaritense por poseer todos los defectos y las cualidades de la tribu y gran conocedor de esta  comentó en alguna ocasión a mi hija Ana Eugenia haciendo referencia a mi, que “si algo he admirado de tu padre –le dijo, es que  “desde mocoso, lo he visto hacer y decir lo que le pega la gana”.

Por otro lado creo tener en el tintero algunas cosas mas o menos interesantes que compartir sobre lo que viví en Tepic, ciudad en que me tocó nacer y el propósito de contarlas tal y como yo las viví, de manera totalmente subjetiva pero también, sin la mínima intención de herir o perjudicar a nadie.- Para alguno que crea que tiene en sus manos una obra histórico-política objetiva y apegada a rigor científico, yo le diría de antemano que estará muy equivocado; solo se trata de dejar a mi magín peregreñar recuerdos e interpretaciones personales teniéndome a mi mismo como más importante destinatario; de manera secundaria a los auto identificatarios y terciaria al resto de la humanidad.- Ojalá pueda lograr mi propósito.

Por último, voy a seguir un consejo que me dio hace unas semanas el Doctor José María Muría, Presidente del Colegio de Jalisco.- (Cuando logro colarme entre los intelectuales,  o cuando menos sií logro quedarme callado y escuchar, siempre he aprendido algo).- La ocasión se presentó recientemente, cuando cenando en Puerto Vallarta acompañados de mi hermana Ana Elda y de una amiga común, Alisa,  -que nunca ha tenido contacto con la vida tepicense o nayarita- y al comentarles en vía de charla que tenia algunas cuartillas guardadas en mi computadora personal, José María me insistió en la necesidad de continuar escribiendo y lo hizo con argumentos similares a los que utilicé con Flores Muñoz que al principio aludo, agregando:  “Mira, Germán, cuando escribas tus experiencias hazlo suponiendo que se las estás contando a Alisa –que no sabe nada de estos temas que no conoce ni el lugar, las gentes, las costumbres y su entorno; no hagas supuestos previos; es decir, para que no supongas que quien llegare a leerte, ya tiene conocimiento de muchas cosas que pudieran parecerte insustanciales y las omitas; no des por hecho que tus lectores las conozcan y no te olvides de esos que pudieras considerar pequeños detalles.- Piensa que se los estás platicando a Alisa y no a tu hermana, quién por el solo hecho de serlo y haber vivido mucho de lo tuyo, ya sabe de antemano muchos de esos pequeños detalles y minucias.- Así es como se va escribiendo la historia”.

Van enseguida pedazos de la mía propia.

La Cruz de Huanacaxtle. Municipio de Bahía de Banderas –(antes Compostela).- Junio del 2,001.

Germán Goldman Serafín

Espera las siguientes secciones muy pronto – Property Journal -

SHARE THIS PAGE...

Very near Puerto Vallarta, to 145 miles north, in the state of Nayarit, is located the island of Mexcaltitan. Built on an islet in the middle of the lagoon of the same name,this town is just 400 meters long and 350 wide. Arriving by land from Santiago Ixcuintla, Mexcaltitán seems to float on the water, and at the time when the San Perdo’s river grows , it gives the impression of being buried beneath the  water. This is why its sidewalks are so high.

Some say, and this has been the subject of controversy among historians, that this town is the mythical Aztlan (aztecs), from where the Aztecs left to the center of the republic, following the designs of their god Huitzilopochtli, who sent them to find a similar place where they will establish their new city, Tenochtitlan (todays Mexico City); the signal to know the right place was the finding of an eagle on top of  a cactus devouring a snake.

In fact, this has no bases and it is just supported on the idea that Aztlán “place of herons” and Mexcaltitán a place on where it abound, and it has been historically associated; another argument is that Aztlan was in Chicomostoc “place of seven caves”. In any case, the only certainty is that the founders of the Aztec capital came from the West, and whom they do have relationship with the now state of Nayarit.

Although some doubt about the certainly of these data, all agree that is a unique place, lush vegetation, colorful streets, friendly locals and relaxed atmosphere. Worth visiting the island since there are buildings of the eighteenth century as the Church of San Pedro and San Pablo, which deserve a visit.

The town counts with the museum “ The Origin” with very interesting archaeological pieces of the local cultures, especially the Aztec.

Both the coast of Nayarit as the estuary of the lake have extraordinary seafood: oysters, shrimp, bearded, mullet, bream, which give the local cuisine an unmistakable and makes it one of the most succulent in the broad spectrum of Mexican food. Do not miss the meatballs and shrimp tamales, the tlaxtihuilli (a unique prehispanic dish) or sarandeado fish.

While walking through the main square and the town’s streets will find local artisans making their curious creations, almost all marine elements such as ginger, shrimp containers made of cloth blanket.

Mexcaltitan is an excellent choice to pass the day, especially at this time which is not so hot and also there is no mosquitoes. Come, and enjoy  to the magnificent beaches of Nayarit .

SHARE THIS PAGE...

It is no coincidence that the four small hills at the feet of the Vallejo Mountains right in front of the immense Banderas Valley, next to two huge embankments surrounded by water drippings are perfectly aligned from north to south. No, it cannot be a simple whim of nature.
Jose Beltran stands on the very top of the northern most hill and allows his gaze to lose itself in the horizon. At this beautiful site he sees all of Puerto Vallarta, Nuevo Vallarta, San Juan de Debajo de Tebelchia, San Jose del Valle de Ixtapa. This is where he made the discovery.
The archeologist had a feeling about it, but now he is sure to be standing on top of what could have been the mythical Xiutla, the most important city in the Aztatlan Cutlure established in the Bay of Banderas, as stated in the chronicles of the Spanish expeditions at the time of the colonization.
Why is he adamant about this possibility? There are many factors; the first of them being the vast extension of terrain where a few mounds erect that are evidently manmade.
An artificial dam, a good number of piles of rubble that make him think of small family nuclei, two embankments that figure to be a huge public courtyard, a small mound that seems to be a sacrifice altar and those four perfectly aligned hills….all hidden beneath the earth and between huisache tree roots, burying the outline of a great city.
The location is a major factor; the whole valley is dominated from the spot, it is also an ideal place for farming, growing corn and rearing cattle. The entire valley where Puerto Vallarta and Riviera Nayarit stand today, cannot escape from the eyes of this apparent ceremonial center.
Beltran has no doubt… just a few weeks after beginning excavations together with the support of Eduardo Gomez Encarnación, a student of regional history by his own passion and heritage and the owner of the 20 hectares hiding this treasure of unknown value, the INAH investigator dares to talk publicly about the possibility of this important discovery. There it lies, he is sure, one of the most important archeological sites of the bay; and probably the very Xiutla which fills all natives with pride.

A diamond amid the debris

Beltran’s first visit to Banderas Bay’s municipal government, headed by Héctor Paniagua Salazar, before his discovery, was not very inspiring.
Beltran was called in by the opposition councilor, Ismael Duñalds, whom reported the extraction of archeological material from a precinct that had been protected during Crescenciano “Chano” Flores’ administration, the first mayor that this young Nayarit municipality ever had.
A little back in history: it is 1989 and the municipal head of Bahia de Banderas is Compostela; the bay is the most prosperous coastal tourist area of the south of Nayarit. At this time Chano Flores is notified of a presence of a great amount of petro glyphs and immediately gives notice to the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH).
Gabriela Zepeda, a young archeologist, arrived in the area for the evaluation. They named the area Piedras Azules, the place where dozens of carved rocks with symbols proper of the Aztatlán culture, such as the Spaniards had documented and also exploited for more than two hundred years.
Zepeda, like many others that preceded, found plenty of the sites documented by Isabel Kelly in the 1930’s and continued the investigations on the Nayarit side of the Banderas Valley.
“ I began by placing small crosses on a map on every historical remain we found from Punta de Mita to El Colomo . Soon there was not a spot on the map without a mark, and we decided to place a great big cross over the entire territory” confessed Gabriela in an interview we held back in 1997.
Unlike Beltran, Zepeda found support from the municipal government from Chano Flores, one which Beltran now wishes he had. Zepeda held serious discussions with one of the biggest specialists in archeology of the region, Joseph Mountjoy.
“There is no doubt that when you ask Mountjoy which is the most important sight of the region, he will state it is Ixtapa. I say the most important site is El Colomo, it is much larger, and for me, far more important“ she assured.
Back then, Mountjoy was working on rescuing the Ixtapa sight in the municipality of Puerto Vallarta. A task that today seems impossible. He manifested his quest openly and soon the rescue of Ixtapa became a political issue and the law for its protection came in too late: they had sacked it all, and as if that did not suffice, some contractor took half of the largest mound and used it as refill for the runway at the Gustavo Diaz Ordaz Airport.
On the other hand, Zepeda kept her site at El Colomo confidential and only made it public to a few articles for scientific magazines.
We are not certain that the site that Beltran today tags as the possible Xiutla, is the same one that Zepeda did. Nevertheless, during Beltran’s visit to help prevent a construction company (history repeats itself) from taking the petro glyphs from Piedras Azules as boulders for building a platform for the Marina in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle , he discovered this other site, untouched, without traces of the brutal plundering accustomed by cultural mercenaries.
Going back to the first encounter, only a few months back… “There is nothing of importance, it´s all debris and pieces of rubble, nothing worthy” replied Paniagua at Beltrans request to thoroughly investigate the area while protecting the carved rocks.
It was thanks to the fine imposed by the INAH to those that hauled the protected rocks, and not to the impulse of the present mayor, that Beltran was able to go over the geography of the zone and identifying its faults as much more than mere accidents.
The treasure was hidden within the debris and rubble, a diamond in brute; one that must be rescued, as long as the economic interests allow it.

SHARE THIS PAGE...

Submerging in the waters of the Pacific Ocean is always spectacular, but to do it in front of the doorway shaped rocks that raise themselves a few feet over the ocean on the south coast of Puerto Vallarta, is an experience to be repeated over and over again say those whom have done it, for they never tire of it.
Los Arcos (The Arches) is a natural preserve closer to Mismaloya than it is to Puerto Vallarta. It is formed by a group of islets covered with exuberant vegetation rising between 16 and 160 feet above the water. This exquisite formation is responsible for the ports original name, Las Peñas (The Crags) which persisted until the beginning of the XX century when it was changed to Puerto Vallarta.
The force of the sea has created the crag´s erosion forming caves and arches making it one of the best places for scuba diving and snorkeling on Mexico’s Pacific Coast.
You can get to Los Arcos on a boat or water taxi from Boca de Tomatlan or Los Muertos Beach. There are also a few tour companies that make day trips to Los Arcos and then visit some close by beach like Quimixto, Yelapa, Las Animas or Majahuitas.
You can also enjoy viewing the arches from firm land standing on the viewpoint that is on the highway between Vallarta and Tomatlan, and capture the treasured sunset falling between the crags and arches while pelicans and booby birds set atop them to rest. A magnificent spectacle!
Amílcar Cupul is an oceanographer and researcher for the Coastal University Center (CUC) of the University of Guadalajara who has been studying the coral reefs of the Bay of Bandera’s area for the last 15 years.
When he first arrived in Puerto Vallarta in 1994, he began a movement to protect the coral reefs and lay rules for the tourist boats that visit the natural preserve, declared as such in 1975. The coral reefs are being damaged by climate change, warm water currents and the El Niño phenomenon, and boat anchors were contributing to even more destruction.
Today there is a buoy that marks the limit to the boats that visit. But human presence persists to damage the more than 10 subspecies of coral in the area for they are threatened by inexperienced divers when they step or crash against them.
All in all, the experienced scuba diver is received in this underwater paradise by a school of angel fish that is a marvelous sight. Even though 95% of the coral reef is lifeless, its formation gives shelter to small fish giving them refuge from larger predators.
A couple of stylized bluefish seem enamored and about to kiss swim past the Cupul Magaña. Amilcar follows them taking notes on a special tablet, and confirms the privilege of working in this environment.
The scientist goes from shallow waters to deeper ones entering a riskier area. He scubas through 80 foot tunnels between the crags. Nearby a ray moves the water that hits its body with the flapping of his fins. In the depth he sees an eel and a few morena fish. Amilcar cannot lose his concentration.
After he covers the 74 acres that comprehend the protected natural area, Amilcar’s work day comes to an end. But he scubas to the area known as La Quijada del Diablo (Devils Jaw) where there is no way of monitoring any coral formations for it has a depth of about 2,000 feet, but travels its waters in hopes of viewing the silhouette of a giant manta ray somewhere in its depths, but today he has no luck.

NOCTURNAL PARADISE
Some specialized companies offer night diving tours to Los Arcos, assuring a spectacle not visible during the day; lobsters, octopus and infinity of fish in a bioluminescent ambience that will make you lose your breath.

SHARE THIS PAGE...

Juan walks slowly and in awe on the Puerto Vallarta Malecon. It is his first time at this destiny and is surprised at seeing “so much art at the side of the ocean”. He counts the sculptures, examines them, he likes some and dislikes others. Of something he is sure, he prefers to dislike some of them rather than just find “statues of heroes that no one believes in” even if they are very well made. But not everyone thinks like John. Rosa Maria has been living in Puerto Vallarta for five years and she is indifferent to the sculptures at the Malecon. She jogs by them every morning with her dog, El Barbas. When asked which is her favorite she simply replies, “and if I tell you I never even paid attention to them, would you believe me?”. But while she works out, between sit ups, she admits, “Ok, yes, I have a favorite, the one with the strange chairs” she lets out. Rosa Maria likes The Rotunda of the Sea, which is more of an installation than a sculpture. In 1997 the Jalisco born artist, Alejandro Colunga placed this series of chairs composed of characters of his own mythology, one that he has recreated in different cities. Today the chairs look out at the ocean though that is not the original placement proposed by Colunga. Hurricane Kenna in 2002 swept them away and ironically took one back to Guadalajara and left three of the smallest in the home of Carlos Manzano, the ex director of Urban Development, which have still to be reinstalled. The actual placement of the sculptures is a mere whim of others, but still function as the author intended: as a way of demystifying art and bringing it closer to the people. “I like to sit here” says Rosa Maria. She sits on Colunga’s piece that has a long spyglass and octopus tentacles. Facing the horizon, as if looking through the fog for the long lost ship of the feared Sir Francis Drake, whom during the XVI century awaited the Manila Galleon in these Pacific waters or like the one manned by Thomas Cavendish whom around the same time, docked in this bay to strip the locals of the pearls and treasures they might find here. Rosa Maria pets her dog. He was known in the olden Vallarta days as El Pajarito (the little bird) and is one of the oldest inhabitants of the city; he misses the uninterrupted view of the ocean “they look like pure toffee candies” about the sculptures he used to say. But in fact it is one sculpture in particular that brings the memory of the twisted caramels that are sold at the market in Guadalajara; The Millenniums by Mathis Lídice.

The sculpture is structure that raises in a spiral towards the sky and tells the tale of the ascension, the history of humanity. It was the artist’s proposal to celebrate the beginning of the XXI century. El Pajarito never liked it, but is one more attraction for many of those who visit the Hotel Rosita, the oldest of the hotels still around in down town Vallarta. “Now that you mention it, it does look like toffee” says Rogelio who is visiting from Salamanca. “Maybe that is why I like it; I might just lick it” he says while taking a picture. The Millenniums is now part of the gallery on his computer. Art of toffee, the sculptures that inhabit the Puerto Vallarta malecon make it one of the most interesting open air galleries in the world. One can enjoy the gallery as Juan does, slowly walking the malecon, feeling the ocean breeze, with the sunset in the back ground and the lighting that offers a clear silhouette that is seen only in the Pacific. Or to see them as Rosa Maria and her dog do, while jogging, without any fixation, feeling her lungs fill with oxygen to later take advantage of them, taking a pause, a deep breath, without forgetting that contained in the ocean are hundreds of stories to be told, this is also valid.

But there is something that without a doubt happens, it does not matter how you look at them, they remain in your memory like part of a landscape that takes your breath away, makes you shudder and fills you with joy. Maybe that is why Don Rogelio captures them on his camera, to share with others what forever he will remember.

SHARE THIS PAGE...

Josh simply can’t picture his life away from sport fishing, which is not only his passion, but also his job. Born with the hook in between his hands, today he devotes himself to the sport fishing industry, and he certainly knows how to deal with truly big fish: his business is to find the best locations in the world for this activity, and then attract celebrities and high-end clients that want to use his fleet and his services. “This isn’t just a game; it’s my life, but it’s also how I make a living. This year only, one famous basketball player spent over $300,000 USD to use my services”, he assures.

There is no doubt that Josh is an expert in his field, and when he says that Riviera Nayarit is one of his favorite places in the world to fish, he truly means it. He first visited Riviera Nayarit ten years ago, and has been coming back frequently since. He currently lives in Vancouver, but his company has three ships docked at Marina Riviera Nayarit, at La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, and he declares that he’ll keep coming to fish here at least for the next 50 years.

“I’ve been to thousands of places around the world, and I can say that this is the best place to fish. The variety of fish is amazing, so you always end up with a catch – there just isn’t a day at sea when you come back empty-handed. There’s tuna and more than one variety of marlin, but also wahoo, red snapper, dolphin fish, swordfish, sawfish and a number of other species. Therefore, when you don’t catch tuna, you get a lot of marlin; when the marlin is low, there’s red snapper; and if there aren’t any red snappers, there’s always wahoo. Simply put: it’s always fishing season”, he explains.

Josh was born in Canada, and represents the third generation of a family of commercial fishermen. He’s spent his whole life on the ocean, and not even the fact that both his father and grandfather lost their lives on their ship when he was only four years old, has diverted him from his passion. When he turned 14, he left school and started making a living by fishing and then commercializing his catch. When he turned 16 he bought his first boat, then saved and bought a larger one, and an even larger third ship that followed. He then realized that he’d spent all of his life saving money to buy boats, and had spent over a couple million dollars on them, without being able to enjoy his fortune.

“I got married when I turned 19, I started a family and began looking for an activity that would allow me better financial security and to spend more time with them; but I didn’t want to stop fishing. Now I own this business where we manage and maintain boats and organize fishing expeditions all around the world. I really enjoy it; I do what I love all the time. This isn’t something I had to learn; it’s something I carry in my blood: I was born to be a fisherman”, he insists.

With all this experience, Josh’s word weighs heavily when he speaks of fishing in the open waters. He says, for example, that the feeling you get when you catch a record-breaking fish is a something that can’t be explained with words. “This is why we go to the end of the world, to remote and wild places where the catch is excellent, but the amenities are scarce”. And this is precisely the reason why he declares that Riviera Nayarit is the best place in the world to practice this sport, because even though he knows of other places that have excellent waters where you can find all the big game, they don’t have the infrastructure and specialized personnel to maintain the equipment, they’re far away from good infrastructure, or there is simply no nightlife there.

“Here we have it all: excellent marinas, people who know how to work with fiberglass, technicians that fix all the kinds of gadgets present in a two-million dollar vessel like the one we use, specialized shops for fishing goods, extraordinary restaurants and hotels, bars and nightlife to enjoy a good day of fishing. But mostly, we have extraordinary fishing all year-round, with record-breaking fish. Usually, other destinations have some of these things, but never a combination of all of them”, he concludes.

MAJOR FISHING TOURNAMENTS ARE JUST AROUND THE CORNER

2^nd Riviera Nayarit Sport Fishing Tournament for Kids

Aims to promote the values and the passion of sport fishing in our region, though a one-day, activity-packed Sunday for the whole family, where the little ones that catch the largest game will receive prizes on the docks of Marina Riviera Nayarit, at la Cruz de Huanacaxtle.

June 6

For more information, please contact: 

50^th International Fishing Tournament at San Blas

Every year, amongst the celebrations for Navy Day, San Blas hosts one of the most important national fishing tournaments in the country. This year they’re expecting a special celebration, as they commemorate its 50^thanniversary, and will have prizes in excess of  $1,450,000 pesos.

June 9 – 13, 2010

www.clubdepescadeportivatepic.com

4^th International Tuna and Marlin Fishing Tournament at Riviera Nayarit

This tournament specializes in catching the most representative game of the Mexican Pacific: tuna and marlin. It’ll offer prizes in excess of a million pesos, and aspires to become one of the most important tournaments in this country.

August 12 – 14, 2010

www.rivieranayaritfishingtournament.com

SHARE THIS PAGE...

The fruit can be used to alleviate headaches and diminish nausea during long trips. The fruit is a three-inch oval, whose color depends on its maturity: from green to yellow to a reddish color. Kids like to eat the outer part when its yellow. Some of the nutrients that can be obtained from the fruit are tannins, beta-carotene, glucose and pentosan. The seed or little “coconut” can be obtained by breaking apart the fruit. The fruit is known as an ocean almond because it grows on the coast and the fruits are commonly found on the beach as if the tides dragged them there. Actually, that’s almost impossible: the thick and fibrous covering of the fruit allows it to float on the waves without sinking for two years or more. They can travel on most of the tropical currents and are able to germinate even after a long sea voyage. The tree is very resistant to wind thanks to its growth pattern; its pagoda shape protects it. It’s not even cowed by the salt-laden sea breeze that is fatal to so many other species!
These trees are great crop protectors. Their loss of leaves, once a year, guarantees nutrients for the soil. The lateral growth of their roots helps to contain sandy soil, curtailing its erosion even after powerful storms. Young (less than three years old), wild almond trees should be planted at a distance between 20 and 30 feet to protect crops. Once they’ve passed their maturity stage, they should be removed to non-fertile lands, since they reproduce very quickly and the land could become a forest in no time.
The fruit from these trees cannot be easily marketable because their yield is quite low. However, the fruit’s cortex is quite flavorful and is included in the diet of coastal inhabitants in small amounts. Its seed’s flavor is similar to commercial almonds, but it must be consumed right after extraction because it decomposes rapidly. One way to preserve them is to smoke them immediately; they can last up to a year that way. In the Philippines, they use the mature fruit to produce liquor. The wood can be used for construction purposes, as flooring and in furniture, but it’s not very resistant.
As you can tell, this native species has not been used adequately in this area. Aside from its aesthetic attractiveness, it’s resistant and can be used as an ornamental plant in our aggressive climate. Neither the wood nor its medicinal properties have been exploited either.

SHARE THIS PAGE...

This is just one more reason to visit the Riviera Nayarit. Aside from its beautiful beaches, its high quality food and spectacular views, it offers places like this narrow alleyway where more typically Mexican culture naturally flows. This alley is also part of the art gallery walk occurring in Bucerias during the winter season.

For twenty years this alley has taken people from the downtown area to the residential zone since it connects to the only bridge crossing over the Indio stream. This stream is the natural causeway that splits Bucerias in two, dividing the tourist section from the business section. It was discovered by Guy Montaigne, president of the Quebec Association of Painters and Sculptors about 20 years ago. When he discovered that the place was known to locals as the “Kissing Alley” he became very enthusiastic and had the idea of decorating the passageway with art; anything, as long as it had to do with kissing.

However, the story that’s told about how the place got is name is not extremely romantic. “There were no lights in the alley and it was really dark, so couples used to go in to get a bit of privacy; that’s how it got its name. There aren’t any legends or romantic anecdotes connected to the place like at the one in Guanajuato, but people hear about it and come to see. It’s slowly become a tourist attraction”, said Arturo Ramirez Ortiz, who owns one of the houses on the alley. Interestingly enough, Ramirez Ortiz is a sculptor. He makes one-piece wooden figures. He and Montaigne got along immediately when they met and set themselves to work right away. In no time at all the walls of the alleyway were featuring the Quebec painter’s work.

Its popularity has grown year after year, because artists from the Quebec Association of Painters and Sculptors have been invited by Montaigne to add on little artistic memoirs. The program has been so successful that the Canadian artists have almost covered it completely, including the bridge that splits Bucerias in two.

When walking away through the artisans stands and then through the art galleries, you can’t help but look back. Who knows, maybe you’ll witness something reminiscent of Casa Blanca, with Humphrey Bogart in a warm, goodbye embrace with the likes of Ingrid Bergman.

SHARE THIS PAGE...

There are neither title deeds nor documents with which to understand the history of such a successful sugar emporium; almost everything has been lost in time. However, the one thing that’s left is the testimony of Don Roberto Avalos Castillon (1921-2001), jealously guarded in a video held by the Regional Tourism and Analysis group of the University of Guadalajara here at their coastal campus. The information taped in 1998 had not been transcribed until now.

The El Tuito Hacienda was founded in 1876 by two families that arrived from Guadalajara, the De la Madrid family and the Michel family. They first set out to find the right piece of land to establish their sugar mill. “I remember perfectly well how they processed the sugar cane and how it was staggered down to the ovens and wood burning heaters; that’s why I think they were very careful when choosing the terrain”, Don Roberto remembers. He had been the mayor of Cabo Corrientes from 1971 to 1973.
Once they chose the location, they gathered workers and populated the community. They built the hacienda with the mill to one side where they processed the sugar cane. The land they purchased for their industry was vast. “The entire area, from the ruins of the hacienda to where the hacienda’s river and the Nogalera River joined, was covered with sugar cane. Their property went all the way to Los Arcos in Puerto Vallarta. The border went down the coast to Quimixto and then up the mountain to a very important point which is Yelapatapa” he explained.

Sugar cane harvest is seasonal, so most of the hacienda’s activity was carried out at the beginning of the year. Grinding began punctually every January 2nd and didn’t end until the harvest was done, generally around the month of April. “The grinding was pretty rustic. The mill was a large, 18-foot wide stone, with a wooden axis. It had a box up top which was propelled by a water fall. The water fell about 9 feet, which allowed the wheel to turn quite rapidly. Then it had three pieces of rod iron on which they placed the sugar cane to be crushed and pressed. They could put in four, eight or even ten stalks of sugar canes, and it could work it”, said Don Roberto.

Although the hacienda was able to become productive in a short while, the owners were faced with their share of problems. “After a time, the local Indians kicked them out; they had to flee or be killed. That was around 1900. During that time, the owners had a foreman called Nabor Estrada, who came from Las Guasimas, but was originally from Ixtlahuehuey; an honest, hard working man. When the trouble came and they had to flee, they left it all in his hands, trusting his integrity”, he said. From Avalos Castillon’s point of view, the De la Madrid and Michel families did right in trusting everything to Estrada, since he was a straight and strong man. He was able to keep the hacienda running and was able to pay them every cent of what they had given him. When Nabor died, his widow, Epifania Pena operated the hacienda with one of the workers, Alfonso Garcia. He had been the person in charge of the store and understood the marketing of the mill’s products perfectly well. “He only knew about the store, not really anything about the land nor anything else, but he learned. Garcia kept the store for a little while. It was located where the billiard hall is now. However, when Dona Epifania passed away, the capital was left to her nephews, Enrique, Teodulo and Epifanio Robles. Finally, all of Nabor Estrada’s capital ended up in Alfonso Garcia’s hands, who bought it off of Dona Epifania’s heirs bit by bit”, he said.

The ex-mayor tells that Garcia was a good boss, who helped the people out and made sure the hacienda was productive. Under his watchful eye, El Tuito became a self-sufficient community. They not only didn’t need to bring things in from the outside, but they supplied sugar and “piloncillo” to the entire region.

In 1938, the Agrarian Reform came into being thanks to President Lazaro Cardenas, and the Ejido El Tuito was formed; all of Garcia’s land was shared out. “The truth is that that reform really screwed us all. That division of land finished off the population. Even though Alfonso told the “ejidatarios” (common owners): “Gentlemen, I’ll buy all your sugar cane or at least mill it for you, but please don’t let this industry die out”, they decided to plant beans and corn until the hacienda began to fall apart; they didn’t have the money to keep it going anymore” Don Roberto concluded.

Cabo Corrientes County was established in 1944 and El Tuito became its seat of government even though the sugar mill and hacienda had already disappeared. The area’s main economic activity nowadays is agriculture, producing corn, beans, watermelon, gum tree and coconut oil palm, and adventure tourism. Although the bonanza has ended, the magic of the town still remains.

Between 1876 and 1938, El Tuito was an area where you could find 1000 head strong cattle ranches, enormous sugar cane fields, coconut oil palm fields on the coast and a productive and self-sustained society. At the time, the land that runs from its urban area to the Los Arcos boulders by Puerto Vallarta was owned by just one person. Of such splendor, all that remains are the ruins of the El Tuito Hacienda and its mill, where “piloncillo” (brown sugar cones), sugar and fire water were produced. You can still see the foundations of the adobe walls that enclosed the hacienda some meters away from an Indian petroglyph that shows a Patolli ball game.

There are neither title deeds nor documents with which to understand the history of such a successful sugar emporium; almost everything has been lost in time. However, the one thing that’s left is the testimony of Don Roberto Avalos Castillon (1921-2001), jealously guarded in a video held by the Regional Tourism and Analysis group of the University of Guadalajara here at their coastal campus. The information taped in 1998 had not been transcribed until now.

The El Tuito Hacienda was founded in 1876 by two families that arrived from Guadalajara, the De la Madrid family and the Michel family. They first set out to find the right piece of land to establish their sugar mill. “I remember perfectly well how they processed the sugar cane and how it was staggered down to the ovens and wood burning heaters; that’s why I think they were very careful when choosing the terrain”, Don Roberto remembers. He had been the mayor of Cabo Corrientes from 1971 to 1973.

Once they chose the location, they gathered workers and populated the community. They built the hacienda with the mill to one side where they processed the sugar cane. The land they purchased for their industry was vast. “The entire area, from the ruins of the hacienda to where the hacienda’s river and the Nogalera River joined, was covered with sugar cane. Their property went all the way to Los Arcos in Puerto Vallarta. The border went down the coast to Quimixto and then up the mountain to a very important point which is Yelapatapa” he explained.

Sugar cane harvest is seasonal, so most of the hacienda’s activity was carried out at the beginning of the year. Grinding began punctually every January 2nd and didn’t end until the harvest was done, generally around the month of April. “The grinding was pretty rustic. The mill was a large, 18-foot wide stone, with a wooden axis. It had a box up top which was propelled by a water fall. The water fell about 9 feet, which allowed the wheel to turn quite rapidly. Then it had three pieces of rod iron on which they placed the sugar cane to be crushed and pressed. They could put in four, eight or even ten stalks of sugar canes, and it could work it”, said Don Roberto.

Although the hacienda was able to become productive in a short while, the owners were faced with their share of problems. “After a time, the local Indians kicked them out; they had to flee or be killed. That was around 1900. During that time, the owners had a foreman called Nabor Estrada, who came from Las Guasimas, but was originally from Ixtlahuehuey; an honest, hard working man. When the trouble came and they had to flee, they left it all in his hands, trusting his integrity”, he said. From Avalos Castillon’s point of view, the De la Madrid and Michel families did right in trusting everything to Estrada, since he was a straight and strong man. He was able to keep the hacienda running and was able to pay them every cent of what they had given him. When Nabor died, his widow, Epifania Pena operated the hacienda with one of the workers, Alfonso Garcia. He had been the person in charge of the store and understood the marketing of the mill’s products perfectly well. “He only knew about the store, not really anything about the land nor anything else, but he learned. Garcia kept the store for a little while. It was located where the billiard hall is now. However, when Dona Epifania passed away, the capital was left to her nephews, Enrique, Teodulo and Epifanio Robles. Finally, all of Nabor Estrada’s capital ended up in Alfonso Garcia’s hands, who bought it off of Dona Epifania’s heirs bit by bit”, he said.

The ex-mayor tells that Garcia was a good boss, who helped the people out and made sure the hacienda was productive. Under his watchful eye, El Tuito became a self-sufficient community. They not only didn’t need to bring things in from the outside, but they supplied sugar and “piloncillo” to the entire region.

In 1938, the Agrarian Reform came into being thanks to President Lazaro Cardenas, and the Ejido El Tuito was formed; all of Garcia’s land was shared out. “The truth is that that reform really screwed us all. That division of land finished off the population. Even though Alfonso told the “ejidatarios” (common owners): “Gentlemen, I’ll buy all your sugar cane or at least mill it for you, but please don’t let this industry die out”, they decided to plant beans and corn until the hacienda began to fall apart; they didn’t have the money to keep it going anymore” Don Roberto concluded.

Cabo Corrientes County was established in 1944 and El Tuito became its seat of government even though the sugar mill and hacienda had already disappeared. The area’s main economic activity nowadays is agriculture, producing corn, beans, watermelon, gum tree and coconut oil palm, and adventure tourism. Although the bonanza has ended, the magic of the town still remains.

SHARE THIS PAGE...